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I'd think that one needs to install the flywheel back just in the correct position so that engine timing is kept right or in synch with the "flywheel" sensor. ECU is constantly reading how flywheel read crank is turning and therefore it is using this information to execute fuel injectors and spark plugs just at the right moment.
Notice that there is a sensor on the engine, right next to flywheel, which reads how the crank rotates per each power stroke. You are correct, the roll pin on the crank locates the flywheel in the correct orientation for the single gap in the teeth on the back of the flywheel that are read by the crank position sensor to be in the required position so that the DME knows where the crank is in relation to the cams for ignition timing, etc..
I've tried purchasing that tool from Cheetah Cheetahonline. I'm checking into alternative fabrication options, and just curious if anyone else would be interested in buying one if they're available. Considering what the OEM tool cost, I would say there probably would be interest, depending upon the final cost. You also have to drill a hole for the pin, paint pin and then try to fit the tool and you'll see which place to drill.
How much over or under you wish to go depends on how good drill you have, but I'd use 0. When using such tool, I'd advise using clean gloves and clean crankcase surfaces with isopropyl alcohol. Do not apply anything else, e. Correct installation depth is 13mm from the face of the crankshaft where the flywheel mates to the crank when using latest model of RMS in my case I used M17 as of the date when this message was written.
Before you start tapping RMS in with this custom tool, try to set it as level as possible to the crank with your both hands use gloves and push it as deep as it goes with ease. Then tap it in from the center. I'd suggest you check how it goes in by using caliper every now and then.
At least I had to tap a bit to non center position to get it in level to 13mm depth. The installation depth should be 13mm from the edge of crankcase to RMS when using latest model of RMS in my case I used M17 as of the date when this message was written. Excellent drawing. Delrin or similar nylon would be a good choice as they are tough enough for a tool, but easily machined.
The correct installed depth for the PTFE seal is also 13MM from the face of the crankshaft where the flywheel mates to the crank. Thanks, guys.
My friend in Toledo has a very hi-tech, state-of-the-art machine shop, and I'm curious - especially from John - as to what sort of demand you feel is out there - from both DIY'ers as well as Porsche shops - at different price points. Cheap enough, which means quantity sales, this would be a hit for the DIY market.
You could still count on some shop sales for those that do low volume work, or as a back up tool for when multiple cars are apart at the same time. I know I would buy one or two depending upon the cost for that reason alone. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead.
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