First, Metal studs are perfectly straight and therefore if a bound edge lands on a stud, it is much easier to ensure that it falls along the entire length of the stud evenly and has sufficient backing throughout. Second, metal stud framing is generally used in commercial construction.
Usually more consideration is given to expansion and contraction in commercial structures limiting the stress on the drywall. If drywall is going to crack in a commercial job, it is probably because of forces beyond the help of the layout of the sheets of drywall. In commercial building with suspended ceilings at heights of under 12 feet, drywall is often stood up lengthwise parallel to the direction of the studs because this creates a situation with almost no butt joints.
Drywall butt joints should always be staggered. This makes it easier for taping and finishing and increases the overall strength of the entire wall. When hanging drywall over wood studs and laying the sheets out or lengthwise across the direction of the studs, it is almost impossible to avoid butt joints at some points along the wall.
However by planning where butt joints will land you can improve the quality of the finish job and long-term holding power. Take for example a wall with an eight foot ceilings height and a length of 13 feet.
If you are using 12 foot long sheets of drywall, one sheet will not cover the distance from wall to wall. The first sheet should be hung flush with the ceiling starting from the left hand side of the wall. Depending on how the studs are laid-out, it will stop about inches, from the right hand side of the wall. This inch section can be filled in with a small sheet of drywall. The lower sheet will be hung flush with the bottom of the first sheet and should be hung flush with the right hand side of the wall leaving the remaining section to be filled in with a small piece of drywall on the left hand side of the wall.
This leaves one butt joint at the upper right hand and one on the lower left hand end of the wall. The butt joints of a wall are generally one of the weaker areas that are prone to cracking.
By staggering the butt joints, you limit them to no more than 4 feet long and therefore decrease the chance of cracking when settling. This same principle of staggering the sheets applies to ceilings and commercial steel stud framing where the ceiling height requires several sheets stacked on top of each other. This principle is less important for the strength of the finished product but it does make for an easier tape and finish job.
In rooms that have a drywall ceiling, the ceiling should always be the first thing that is hung. By hanging the ceiling before the walls, the wall sheets will butt up flush along the edges of the ceiling and hold the ceiling sheets in place. Primarily, this makes the joints at the ceiling angles tighter and easier to finish. Once the ceilings lids are hung, the walls can be hung starting from the ceiling down. This helps keep the ceiling angle tight and easier to finish.
Permits are required when adding drywall to a new wall or when finishing a basement or attic. Drywall lasts 30 to 75 years with proper care. Exposure to moisture, termites, and pests reduces the lifespan. Drywall is a layer of gypsum sandwiched between two sheets of paper or fiberglass.
Plaster is a paste-like substance applied over blueboard or wood laths. Plaster is typically used for restorations on older or historic homes. Get free estimates. How much does drywall installation cost? How much will your drywall cost? Table of contents [hide] [show]. Get free quotes from drywall contractors in your city. View Pros. Find top-rated drywall companies near you. Before DIY, get free estimates from drywall pros. Project Drywall sheets needed walls only Dryall sheets needed walls and ceiling 5x8 Bathroom 5 — 6 6 — 8 12x12 Bedroom 10 — 12 12 — 18 12x20 Master bedroom 12 — 16 16 — 24 16x20 Living room 12 — 18 20 — 28 20x20 Garage 16 — 24 24 — 36 1, SF Basement 22 — 60 45 — 80 1, SF Whole house — — 2, SF Whole house — — 2, SF Whole house — — 3, SF Whole house — — Drywall Plaster Cheaper Cracks less Faster and easier to install Minimal drying time Better insulating Thicker Fire-retardant More labor-intensive to install and requires multiple coats Longer drying time Stronger and more durable More soundproof.
Still have questions? Ask a drywall pro. HomeGuide Pro Survey - 20 Participants. Craftsman National Estimator Cloud. Cost to Install Drywall. Millions of people ask HomeGuide for cost estimates every year. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers. Please log in with your username or email to continue. No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great.
By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1. Inspect the ceiling for obstructions or problems that need to be fixed. Find the ceiling joists and mark their location on the wall. Mark the placement of light fixtures and vents on the drywall.
Note where the different light fixtures, vents, and electrical boxes are located on the wall and mark their locations on the drywall you plan to place on top of them. Smooth the rough edges of the drywall pieces. Smoothing the rough edges on the cut edges of your drywall pieces will ensure tight joints between the drywall. A T-brace will provide the leverage and support needed to raise the drywall panels to the ceiling when you're working alone.
Use a 2 feet 61 cm piece of 1x4 and nail it to a 2x4 that is long enough to be 1 foot 30 cm higher than the length from the floor to the ceiling. Drywall lifts can be cheaply rented from department stores and most stores that sell construction equipment. Part 2. Apply adhesive to the joists where the first sheet of drywall will go. Start in the corning and raise the first sheet of drywall to the ceiling so you can get an idea of the placement across the joists.
Wait until you know where you're placing the sheet before you apply any adhesive to the joists. Raise the first piece of drywall to the ceiling. Using your T-brace, or a friend to assist you, raise the first sheet of drywall to the ceiling and slide it snugly into the corner.
Make sure that the tapered edges of the sheet are facing the floor. Repeat this process along the first wall. Attach the next piece of drywall using this same process and continue along the wall, always ensuring that the tapered edges abut one another and are facing down. Affix the drywall sheets permanently to the ceiling joists. Use either nails or screws to attach the drywall to the joists. Drive the fasteners in. Along the interior joist, install the fasteners at about 12 inches 30 cm increments.
Start the second row with a half sheet of drywall to stagger the seams. Having staggered seams will enforce the stability of the drywall. Tip the panel off of the floor or table at a slight angle, then push it down to break it in half. Use the same procedure to attach this half-piece of drywall as you used on the first row of drywall.
Repeat this process until the entire ceiling is covered. Continue to place drywall in rows along the ceiling, affixing them in place with nails or screws. Go back and cut holes in the drywall for vents and fixtures. Now that the drywall is set, go back and cut holes in the places you marked for vents, lights, and electrical boxes. Use a spiral cutout saw to make the cutting process quick and easy.
Agustin Renoj Home Improvement Specialist. Agustin Renoj. The best thing to do is to hire someone who does that for a living—it will get finished much faster and will usually look much nicer.
If you do decide to do it yourself, you're going to need at least two people to help you, because sheetrock is very heavy and you can easily get hurt. Not Helpful 9 Helpful 4. How do I repair a ceiling where a portion is falling in and needs to be replaced? Mark off a squared or rectangular-shaped line around the damaged area.
Determine the orientation and location of the ceiling joists. Extend your squared off markings so that two opposite sides of the outline fall on center, directly over the ceiling joists.
0コメント